Updated 2/20/2020. Starts with removing flywheel hub from old motor. For previous steps do the reverse of the rest of the installation process. Refer to 1966 Mustang Shop Manual for details of stock item removal and installation. Click on thumbnail to enlarge pictures.
Remove 6 taper lock bushing screws with 5/32" allen wrench. Use harmonic balancer puller, 3/4 in socket, torque wrench, long screwdriver and rubber mallet. It took me several mallet taps around the perimeter of the hub and about 100 ft-lbs for it to pop loose.
Picture of motor side of hub:
Loosen set screw if tight. I didn't have one that fit, but fortunately it was loose and not protruding in to the bushing plane.
Use rubber mallet to wedge a screwdriver in to the taper lock bushing split to loosen it from the motor shaft.
Use rubber mallet to use a screwdriver to pry taper lock key from bushing.
Picture of bare motor shaft:
Clean all taper lock bushing, key and hub surfaces but do not lubricate. Use hammer to gently tap taper lock key in to motor shaft keyway.
Use screwdriver and rubber mallet to spread open split in taper lock bushing. Slide on to shaft and place bushing so it stands .217 in above end of motor shaft, then remove screwdriver.
Clean 6 hardened steel 10-24 x 1-1/4 in long socket cap screws. Lightly grease threads and cap seat surfaces. Place flywheel hub on bushing and install screws using 5/32 in Allen wrench, tightening diagonally and evenly to a moderate torque. Verify height of outer shoulder of hub is 2.652 +/- .100 in above the motor face. Go back to step 2 and adjust starting bushing height on shaft if needed. (Note: this took me 3 tries until I finally quit at 2.595 in, only.057 in low.)
Picture of motor side of motor adapter ring:
Clean motor adapter ring and 4 hardened steel 3/8-16 x 2 in socket cap screws. Lightly grease threads and cap seat surfaces. Place ring on motor and install screws using 5/16 in Allen wrench, tightening diagonally and evenly to a moderate torque.
Picture of motor side of motor adapter plate:
Clean motor adapter plate and 4 hardened steel 1/2-13 x 1-1/4 in flat head screws. Lightly grease threads and cap seat surfaces. install motor adapter plate on ring and install screws using 5/16 in Allen wrench, tightening diagonally and evenly to a moderate torque.
Clean flywheel and inspect for wear. Turn clutch surface as needed, or replace if worn too thin. Clean 6 hardened steel 7/16-20 x 1 in bolts. Lightly grease threads and cap seat surfaces. Locate flywheel on hub - it only goes one way to allow for balancing with motor. Use 3/4 in socket, torque wrench and 2 clutch pressure plate screws and a long screwdriver with a square shaft to install screws diagonally and evenly first finger tight, then to 20, 40, 60, then 75-85 ft-lb.
Picture of flywheel installed:
Use clutch plate centering tool. This one is custom made from 1 in aluminum rod 3.675 in long with .55 in long .65 in dia for bushing and 2.125 in long .875 in dia for clutch plate with 3 in handle and fits in to the flywheel hub trasmission input shaft forward bushing:
Clean clutch plate and inspect for excess wear and broken springs and replace if needed. Lightly grease flywheel hub transmission input shaft forward bushing. Place clutch plate on flywheel, then insert clutch plate centering tool through clutch plate in to bushing to center it.
Clean clutch plate and inspect for excess wear, turning it or replacing it if worn too thin. Clean 6 hardened steel 5/16-18 x 1 in bolts. Lightly grease threads. Place pressure plate on flywheel and tighten with 1/2 in socket and torque wrench, first finger tight, then 1 turn at a time diagonally and evenly until all 3 mounts are touching flywheel, then to 23-28 ft-lb. Then remove clutch plate centering tool.
Clean bell housing, throwout bearing, lever, spring and pivot. Inspect throwout bearing for excess wear and replace if necessary. Top up throwout bearing with grease using grease gun. Install lever to pivot with spring, then snap throwout bearing to pivot.
Place bell housing on adapter plate. Clean 4 long bolts and one short bolt. Lightly grease threads. Install lower locating pin from the transmisison side with the knurled end last. Tap in with hammer and rift. (Note that these locating pins need to be removed and reinstalled due to an error fabricating the adapter plate that I reworked using a power drill and the holes did not end up perpendicular.)
Install upper locating pin from transmission side with knurled end last. Tap in with hammer and rift.
Add 5 nuts and hand tighten, then rotate assembly to put bell housing on ground. Then remove 4 nuts from 4 long bolts and install motor mount adapter -- 4 1/2-13 bolts plus spacers to motor and 4 long 3/8-16 bolts through bell housing and motor adapter plate. (Note: I was in the process of modifying the motor mount adapter for this new AC motor and needed to place the motor in the car to locate the new adapter parts so it is not shown assembled here.) Here is a picture of just the modified motor mount adapter:
Place motor on side, holding up non-shft end with 2.25" of wood. Lube threads of 2 custom made 4-1/2 in long .430 in dia pins with 1 in of 7/16-14 thread. Hand screw them in to two diagonal transmission mount bolt holes. Lube shafts. (Note hey are in the lower left and upper right holes because the lower right hole was damaged and when the hole was drilled for the helicoil it was done with a power drill and not perpendicular enough for the long guide pin to work.)
Slide transmission with speedometer hole plugged with a rag and the driveshaft in to keep oil from spilling out and the rear U joint taped or clamped together so it doesn't come apart on to guide pins. If the input shaft hits the throw out bearing, realign bearing, then proceed to push.
Keep pushing transmission along guide pins. If it hits the clucth plate, turn the driveshaft while pushing until it alings. It hs helpful to have a second person during this process. Clean 4 hardened steel 7/16-14 x 1-1/2 in bolts. Lightly grease threads. Install with lock washer and tighten diagonally and evenly with 5/8 in socket first hand tight, then to 20 ft-lb, then to 37-42 ft lb. (Note that picture does not show motor mount adapter installed per comments in step 8 above.)
Lift up motor side of assembly with floor jack and strap to saw horse that can hold at least 225 lb. Then jack up transmission end so assembly is more 8-1/2 in above the ground. Slide transmission jack under bell housing.
Raise transmission jack and securely strap assembly to pedestal with two racheting straps. Do not use single chain and tightener - it came loose on me when I tilted the pedestal, but at least it didn't fall off like it would have on a jack stand. Remove jack stand under transmission and strap from saw horse.
Block both sides of rear wheels. Jack car up so front end frame rails are 18 in off the ground. Position jack stands so they point away from the middle to make room for wide wheelbase transmission jack. My jack stands are 18 in high on the second pin hole. Push car sideways both directions on jack stands to make sure they are secure. Remove 2 idler arm bushing bolts. Loosen 2 right tie rod end connector bolts and remove connector. Yes unfortunately you will need to have the toe-in realighned, but these old cars go out of alignment often so it's probably that time again. Swing tie rod towards drivers side. This leaves 24 inches clearance up to the front battery rack splash plate lip. Roll transmission jack between right front wheel and tie rod. Lace driveshaft through parking brake cable. (Note that picture shows old motor mount adapter per comments in step 8 above.)
Loosely attach transmisison mount to transmission with two nuts and lock washers. Carefully position transmisison mount under body then raise in to place. Enjoy stable manueverability of transmission jack with 4 wheel casters, wide wheelbase, side-to-side and front-to-back tilt control, and a non-swiveling platform with 4 clamps and 2 straps to hold the assembly to the platform for easier and safer installation than using a car jack. Loosely attach transmission mount to body with 2 bolts, 4 flat washers, 2 lock washers and 2 nuts. (Note that picture does not show motor mount adapter installed per comments in step 8 above.)
Raise motor up above where motor mounts go. Install one motor mount to the body at a time with 2 bolts, lock washers and nuts on each. For my car I replaced the body mount due to rust but it came without an inner stiffener and I forgot to add them so I make a u-shaped hook out of welding rod and duct tape a threaded spacer to it and put it in place while threading the bolt through the mount and body. Lower the motor on to the motor mounts. (Note that picture does not show motor mount adapter installed per comments in step 8 above.)
Install and tighten 4 motor mount bolts, flat washers, lock washers and nuts.
From rear to front:
a. Rear driveshaft u-joint to differential, 2 u-bolts
b. Convertible seat support plate, 6 bolts
c. Parking brake pivot arm and return spring to front and rear parking brake cables
d. Shifter mount to transmission, 3 bolts
e. Rear shift rods to shift levers, 3 clips
f. Speedometer cable and gear down to transmission, 1 bolt and 2 zip-ties to bell housing
g. Top up transmisison fluid; also rear axle fluid if you haven't lately.
h. Clutch equalizer bar to upper clutch rod, 1 clip
i. Clutch equalizer bar to body mount and bell housing, 2 bolts, 2 nylon bushings and 2 felt pads
j. Lower clutch rod to throwout lever and return spring
k. Idler arm bushing, 2 bolts
l. Right tie rod connector, roughly setting toe in, 2 bolts
Install front battery splash shield to front battery rack, then install in to car with 4 sway bar pivot bolts. Install two batteries in front rack. Install front battery hold down with 4 threaded rods. Install front battery fuse and terminals on fuse holder plate on hold down.
Install top battery rack to motor mount adapter with 4 bolts, lock washers and nuts. Attach front end of conduit to rack with two nuts and lock washers.
Install 6 top batteries in top rack. Install top battery hold down with 4 threaded rods. Install top battery fuse and terminals on fuse holder plate on hold down.
Make top battery connections:
Power cables (10)
a. Module 1 + (front left from driver's point of view) to front fuse
b. Front fuse to module 2 -
c. Module 2 + to rear pack module 3 -
d. Rear pack module 6 + to module 7 - (top right rear)
e. Module 7 + to module 8 - (top right middle)
f. Module 8 + to module 9 - (top right front)
g. Module 9 + to top fuse
h. Top fuse to module 10 - (top left rear)
i. Module 10 + to module 11 - (top left middle)
j. Module 11+ to module 12 - (top left front)
BMS RS485 communication cable connections (9)
a. Rear module 6 5 meter extension plug to module 10 socket
b. Module 10 plug to module 11 socket
c. Module 11 plug to module 12 socket
d. Module 12 plug to module 1 socket via left 0.5 meter extension
e. Module 1 plug to module 2 socket
f. Module 2 plug to module 7 socket via right 0.5 meter extension
g. Module 7 plug to module 8 socket
h. Module 8 plug to module 9 socket
i. Module 9 plug to BMS socket
