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Mt_Ritter_SE_Glacier_Secor Posted on July 24, 2022 13:21:07.
Mount Ritter (4006 m; 13,157 ft)
Southeast Glacier. Class 3.
Descended October 1872 by John Muir. Go west from Lake Ediza to the cliff beneath the snout of the glacier that is southeast of Mount Ritter. Start by climbing slabs to the left of a gully before crossing the head of the gully to reach the left (south) end of a vegetationcovered ledge. This ledge leads diagonally right across the cliff; a few small waterfalls fall upon it from above, The ledge eventually splits, Go up a steep, narrow, grassy ledge before switchbacking up onto another ledge, which leads to the top of the cliff. Skirt the north side of the glacier and climb the right-hand chute that leads to the broad talus slope beneath the summit.
Maloy Variation: Class 3. First ascent 1982 by Owen Maloy, John Backus, and Sherry Harsh. There are a total of three chutes that lead from the glacier to the bowl beneath the summit, This variation climbs the talus slope to the right of the far, left-hand chute (Owens Chute).